One of the all time roughest days.
My Dutch hiking partner tells me he’s only been on two hikes before. He’s wearing Tommy Hilfiger trainers and has a tiny backpack with one spare pair of pants. We take a soviet era truck halfway down a valley on the worst roads imaginable and almost get shaken to death.
We crack on. It’s ok going. The altitude gets more and more noticeable. The Dutch guy, Lars, doesn’t talk too much. It gets harder. I see a ridge ahead of us, mainly scree and shingle, that looks impossibly steep. We trudge towards it like condemned men to the gallows. As we get closer we encounter an Australian guy I’ve seen around a few times. Usually he’s very cheerful but seems now to be a genuinely traumatised dedicated husk.
The ascent is foul. Every ten steps, crawling on my hands, I have to take deep breaths. I really think I might not be able to do it. My Dutch mate is out of sight, likely dead. I do reach the top, and the view of Ala Kol lake takes what breath I have left away.
Against all odds Lars makes the ascent. We then must descend. We reach our campsite and collapse. There’s fuck all to do but we swim in the freezing lake and get ravaged by mosquitoes. Bed by 9pm wearing every single item of clothing I own because it’s very cold.
The following morning Lars insists on another swim again in the lake. We find out that this is very very naughty and forbidden by a guide. Oops. A Chinese lady who was terrified by the walk yesterday asks to join us, and we immediately get lost and have to take her down a steep rock scramble. The walk is an endless descent. We trudge through stunning scenery. Once we’re finally at the bottom, we get a taxi and part ways.
Weird and exhausting experience. Would definitely do it again.
Planet Caravan 
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